While Kandy's bustling city center teems with red buses, tuk-tuks, and vibrant markets, few visitors realize that a pristine primary rainforest sanctuary clings to the mountain ridges directly behind the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic.
Known as Udawattakele ("The Garden Above the Palace"), this 104-hectare historic reserve was once the private pleasure garden and defensive redoubt of Kandyan royalty. Today, it offers a peaceful walking escape where travelers can immerse themselves in nature without leaving the city.
1. Natural Features and Wildlife
Walking beneath the dense forest canopy of Udawattakele feels like stepping into a prehistoric world:
- Giant Entada Lianas: Enormous thick woody vines hang like twisting ropes from high tree branches, some spanning hundreds of meters.
- The Royal Pond: A secluded natural pool in the forest where royal consorts once bathed, surrounded by lush maidenhair ferns and bamboo.
- Birdwatching Haven: Home to more than 80 species of birds, including the endemic Layard's Parakeet, Yellow-fronted Barbet, Spot-winged Thrush, and three species of Kingfisher.
- Troops of Toque Macaques & Barking Deer: Keep an eye out for muntjac (barking deer) grazing cautiously on forest trails at dawn.
2. The Legacy of the Hermitages
Udawattakele holds deep spiritual roots. Hidden along the trails are ancient rock-cave dwellings (Senasanaya) where Buddhist monks and European hermits (such as the German monk Nyanaponika Thera) lived and wrote seminal works on Buddhist meditation in complete seclusion.
3. Practical Walking Advice
- Opening Hours: Open daily from 7:00 AM to 5:00 PM.
- Trail Duration: The main loop trail takes about 1.5 to 2 hours to complete at an easy walking pace.
- Leech Precautions: During or immediately following rain, wet-zone forest leeches are present on the trails. Wear ankle-covering socks and apply natural eucalyptus or citronella oil.
“Combine an early morning walk in Udawattakele with a stroll around Kandy Lake. You'll see the mist rising off the water, hear Buddhist chants filtering up from the temple, and see the royal city from an entirely unique perspective.”
